The North swells were 9 feet at 13 seconds, with a 5-15 mph eastern wind (blowing offshore) and 70 degree temperatures. We arrived at 12:30 to find Liam and Trevor packing up. "Too big," they said. "Can't get out past the break." We were already suited up, and wanted to see for ourselves, so we were rewarded with a beautiful day of shredding some huge breakers.
Just after the tide peaked, there were two sets of breakers, with an in-between zone where the outer breakers would 'unbreak' before collapsing closer to shore. The inner breakers were providing nice, long, if mushy, rides. The outer breakers were where the real excitement was, with 9-10 foot swells that were being stood up by the wind blowing out to sea. Much air was caught and many a wild ride were had. By the time the sun set, the water was out far enough to eliminate the inner breakers, and the remaining break zone was fast and furious indeed.
I tried out the Astro 58 with fins installed, and had some breakthroughs in ride length, cartwheeling in the foam pile, and airtime. I suppose my lack of fear for the big waves comes from having not been really worked in the surf before. I'm in no hurry, though. Hopefully, there will be a few more days of storm swells under sunny skies at the Oregon coast before the rains come into our rivers and our attention is diverted elsewhere...
